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General Silver Forum Non cancer causing jewlery cleaner?
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Author | Topic: Non cancer causing jewlery cleaner? |
afroqt Posts: 2 |
posted 11-21-2006 12:09 AM
[26-1264] Hello, I am very worried about using jewelry cleaners that contain thiourea... are there any silver "dip" alternatives that do not contain this chemical. Thanks IP: Logged |
Kimo Posts: 1627 |
posted 11-21-2006 09:17 AM
I'm not heard of any though I would be interested in hearing if anyone knows of any. This carcinogenic effect is perhaps the best reason why I believe dips should never be used on silver. Thiourea has also been found though continued exposure to cause dermatitis and even hyperphotosensitivity of your skin. My other reasons for not liking dips are that they remove the patina along with the tarnish, they can corrode the silver if left on for too long, and they make the surface more likely to tarnish more quickly afterwards. I'm not sure there will ever be any non-thiourea dips because it is central to the basic chemical process that is the basis for a dip. Dips are made of thiourea disolved in sulfuric acid. Placing some tarnished silver into this liquid creates a chemical reaction that reverses (sort of) the chemical reaction that created the silver sulfide or silver chloride (which is what we commonly call tarnish). The problem is that while this chemical reaction changes tarnish back into silver, it does not put it back into its original crystaline structure which was also changed in the tarnishing chemical reaction. This changed crystaline structure of the silver on the surface is grainier and as such is much more susceptable to the chemical reactions of tarnishing making you need to dip it more often. This tarnish then dip cycle accelerates as the surface silver crystaline structure gets more and more changed with each cycle. Also, this different crystaline structure is the reason why a dip will not give the same rich appearance to your silver as a regular polishing will do. Stick with a nice mild, non-abrasive polish or polishing cloth. IP: Logged |
Clive E Taylor Posts: 450 |
posted 11-21-2006 01:16 PM
Kimo's response is why I, and I suspect many other viewers like Silver Salon Forums. A concise and I am quite sure totally accurate authoratarian explanation of something none of the rest of us have a clue - but should. Many thanks Clive IP: Logged |
salmoned Posts: 336 |
posted 11-21-2006 03:33 PM
A good explanation, but could be improved. Yes, there are at least a dozen different chemical dips that COULD be formulated. However, none found with quite as good a combination of qualities (cheap, effective, safe, etc.). Also, when using the term non-abrasive polish, 'non-abrasive' should be in quotations as the process of polishing is mildly abrasive. IP: Logged |
afroqt Posts: 2 |
posted 11-21-2006 05:10 PM
Thanks Kimo for such a comprehensive answer! I will be throwing away my dip! My problem is that I have yet to find something that will polish those "hard to get to" crevices in intricate silver jewelry. Is there a jewelry polish and instrument that you swear by?? afroqt IP: Logged |
FWG Posts: 845 |
posted 11-22-2006 11:35 AM
Elbow grease But seriously, there is no substitute for time and energy, carefully applied. I've been known to use cotton 'ear swabs', wadded rags of different sizes and materials (I generally prefer pure cotton), even knit gloves. For some small pieces an ultrasonic cleaner is wonderful (has to be something that can't be vibrated apart in any conceivable way), and an ammonia-based cleaner can be good -- but both for general cleaning, not polishing per se, and not to be used if you don't know the risks (never with pearls, turquoise, opals, for example). IP: Logged |
Kimo Posts: 1627 |
posted 11-22-2006 11:45 AM
The best way to keep your silver looking great is to use it constantly. If you do you will find it rarely needs polishing. The second way is to store your silver in a place where it won't be exposed to sulfur or chlorine - keep it out of the kitchen if you have a gas range/oven, keep it away from rubber bands, keep it away from wool, keep it clean after it has been in contact with food or salt, etc. The third way is to store it either in pacific cloth wraps or bags or lined jewelry chests (pacific cloth is that blue or brown felt cloth that have been specially treated to retard silver tarnish) or store it with anti-tarnish strips (which are basically just activated charcoal thingies that soak up sulfur and chlorine gases that are in the air in your house for a while. You do need to replace these from time to time as they get 'used up'). When I do need to polish, my first choice is silver smith gloves which are simply soft cloth gloves that some silver polish makers sell that have powdered silver polish in them. You just wear them then polish your silver with your hands and fingers. They can be laundered and you can buy the silver polish powder stuff to 'recharge' them. For more difficult tarnish I use the paste polish and a really, really old 100% cotton white t-shirt that has no designs printed on it and that has been through the laundry a zillion times making it ultra soft and non-scratching. The fibers in new cotton fabric and most synthetics will be too stiff and abrasive. I always polish lengthwise to the object, not in circles which can leave those irritating swirly patterns on silver. I also don't over-polish. For objects with raised or incised designs I will normally let the tarnish build up in those spots since it gives the object an honest patina and a three-dimensional look. If there is just too much tarnish in the crevices and corners for this, however, I might gently use an old and well worn toothbrush that started with extra soft bristles - not one of those medium or firm toothbrushes. I use it just enough to get the worst of the dirt and tarnish but being sure to leave enough in the deepest crevices to maintain the overall patina. If there is some dried silver polish in crevices or surface scratches I gently run a soft horsehair brush over it. Some of the silver polish makers sell these that have been specially made to be extra gentle. I only use this just enough to clean out the dried residue - it is not for energetic buffing.
[This message has been edited by Kimo (edited 11-22-2006).] IP: Logged |
Clive E Taylor Posts: 450 |
posted 11-22-2006 11:48 AM
In some respects leaving a little tarnish in "the hard to get into crevices" is good thing. It gives a much better 3 dimemsional appearance and tells those of us that value patination that no-one has used the dreaded dip/mechanical cleaning processes. Personally I much prefer to find buckles in a tarnished condition rather than a pristine , sterile white. Then I can decide how far to go. The only drawback is you often cannot tell repairs under a tarnish. Curiously I am slightly colour blind and can usually detect the very slight yellow (to me ) colour of a repair , whereas my wife, with perfect colour vision , has the greatest of difficulty. IP: Logged |
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