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 Gorham jewelry
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| Author | Topic: Gorham jewelry |
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Paul Lemieux Posts: 1792 |
posted 04-29-2001 12:18 PM
  
[10-0023] I think this area of Gorham's production is unjustly given short shrift in references--often just a paragraph or two. I don't actually have any Gorham catalogs, but I wonder to what extent jewelry was included in the catalogs? I don't really see a lot of Gorham jewelry, so I wondered if not much was made, it wasn't marketed very well, or if people just don't get rid of it. I'd also like to see what sort of records on jewelry are housed in the archives. Gorham actually started out making the "Gorham Chain" before silver production began in 1831. I am not exactly sure when Gorham resumed production of jewelry (in fact, I am not totally sure if jewelry production ever fully stopped, but I think it did), but I suspect it was in the last quarter of the 19th century, around 1880 or so. Like their silverware, Gorham's jewelry was of outstanding quality and well designed; it was probably some of the top silver production jewelry of the day--along with Shiebler and Tiffany.
A great circa 1900 buckle with opals. It almost has an Arts & Crafts feel, especially considering the metal & semi-precious stones.
The 1st edition of the book describes a few more...
Buckles seem to be the most prevalent form. There was no Martel� jewelry. Gorham jewelry continued through the century, and probably still does today. Unfortunately, I think the quality of the jewelry went down as time went on I wonder how much gold jewelry Gorham made. Page 219 of the 1997 printing of Gorham Silver shows a gold & enamel necklace made for Brown University in 1965. I would love to see pictures or descriptions of any other Gorham jewelry out there, or hear further comments on the subject. IP: Logged |
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linda63 Posts: 2 |
posted 02-17-2005 10:34 AM
I saw your interest in Gorham jewelry and would like to draw your attention to the Gorham silver locket topic which I posted on the Gorham forum on 2/12/05. I wonder if you have any more Gorham jewelry information since you first posted this topic. Thanks Linda IP: Logged |
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rat Posts: 63 |
posted 04-03-2005 09:05 PM
I have a very unusual piece of Gorham jewelry. It looks very much like Chicago arts & crafts jewelry (i.e., Art Silver Shop, Bjarne, Odd Krafters Shop). It is hand hammered with bezel set green stone (chrysoprase?) surrounded by applied handwrought flowers. It measures 1" x 2 1/8". The markings are unusual as well: "STERLING, HANDWROUGHT, THE GORHAM CO." IP: Logged |
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Paul Lemieux Posts: 1792 |
posted 07-14-2005 04:54 PM
I have seen a couple of pieces of this style of Gorham jewelry. They carried the same marks. On no other Gorham objects have I seen the "HANDWROUGHT" mark (after all, most of their silver was machine-made). But even their handwrought silver like Martele is not so marked. Actually I have wondered if this Arts & Crafts jewelry was really made by Gorham or just retailed through them. The "THE GORHAM CO." mark means the piece was sold through their retail store in New York. I ask myself, Why didn't Gorham put the lion-anchor-G mark on this jewelry? One possible answer is that somebody was making this jewelry and then wholesaling it to various retailers. Some have accused me of being a nitpicker, but it seems that the "O" in HANDWROUGHT differs a little from the "O" in GORHAM. Maybe it means something other than that the stamps were made at different times. [This message has been edited by Paul Lemieux (edited 07-14-2005).] IP: Logged |
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rat Posts: 63 |
posted 07-15-2005 01:47 AM
Actually, I believe my Gorham brooch was made by the Chicago silversmith, Bjarne. I have seen a nearly identical style brooch by Bjarne, which was exactly the same size and shape and of similar weight. The back was marked, "STERLING HANDWROUGHT BY BJARNE". The STERLING HANDWROUGHT appeared to be of the same font. I did not buy the Bjarne brooch, but I saved the photos - what do you think? the front & the back: My curiosity almost made me buy the other pin, but my pocketbook stopped me - rat IP: Logged |
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Paul Lemieux Posts: 1792 |
posted 07-15-2005 09:35 AM
Thanks for posting a picture of the Bjarne brooch. It is very illuminating. I think that just about confirms the suggestion that Gorham was not making these pins. (By the way, have any of us seen non-brooch examples of this jewelry?) rat, I do not know much about Bjarne. Do you have any further details about him? IP: Logged |
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dragonflywink Posts: 993 |
posted 07-15-2005 09:40 AM
Great piece rat! Do you have any other pieces by Chicago silversmiths? Always enjoy seeing your jewelry. Cheryl ;o) IP: Logged |
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Richard Kurtzman Moderator Posts: 768 |
posted 07-15-2005 12:35 PM
Here is another pin of a similar nature with similar marks.   IP: Logged |
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Ulysses Dietz Moderator Posts: 1265 |
posted 07-15-2005 03:45 PM
From a long-ago look through the Gorham archives at Brown University, there was quite a great line of silver jewelry from the 1860s onward. What the hell happened to it all? Maybe it didn't sell, but silver jewelry generally did, and Gorham was a big maker. A real puzzle. I've seen very little over the years. IP: Logged |
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Silver Lyon Posts: 363 |
posted 07-15-2005 04:43 PM
Perhaps most of it wasn't marked? So we have been seeing without realising! IP: Logged |
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Richard Kurtzman Moderator Posts: 768 |
posted 07-15-2005 05:27 PM
Gorham did produce Martele jewelry, most of it in gold. Pristo lists 93 18kt gold Martele brooches, 2 bangles, 1 belt pin, 7 buckles and 1 hat pin. He lists 1 catch (I'm not sure what that is.) and 2 chatelaines in Martele silver. Here is a pair of cufflinks marked B742 indicating that they were made in the smalls area sometime from 1898 onward. I believe Gorham went to prefixes in 1898. IP: Logged |
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rat Posts: 63 |
posted 07-16-2005 02:01 AM
Cheryl, since you asked, I started a new topic on American Arts & Crafts Jewelry, and kicked it off with some Chicago jewelry... Paul, there's a little info on Bjarne in the: Bjarne thread. I don't own this piece either, but it bears a strong resemblance to the Bjarne jewelry as well. front & back: - rat IP: Logged |
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Ulysses Dietz Moderator Posts: 1265 |
posted 08-10-2005 10:46 AM
I have recently seen a great private collection (not huge, but incredible designs) of Gorham silver jewelry from the 1890s-ca. 1910, including a couple of things like the arts and crafts pieces shown here. But also amazing large sash pins shaped like peacocks, art nouveau silver pieces set with opals, and a gilded silver large brooch all set with Montana sapphires. So it is out there, although I can't say I've ever seen it surface (then, I don't really look as I should). IP: Logged |
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Paul Lemieux Posts: 1792 |
posted 08-17-2005 03:19 PM
This is a Gorham brooch from circa 1900. It is made of gilt silver and set with citrines, baroque pearls, and a large amethyst. The curvy lines and beaded settings remind me of the sea and its life forms. It is marked STERLING with Gorham's trademark and the model number 26. IP: Logged |
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Richard Kurtzman Moderator Posts: 768 |
posted 08-18-2005 05:36 PM
This is a great piece and I have a feeling that it is earlier than you think, possibly the 1880s. IP: Logged |
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Paul Lemieux Posts: 1792 |
posted 08-19-2005 01:36 PM
You are probably right. Actually it reminds me a little of the items Chas Osborne designed for Tiffany and Whiting in the 1880s. ----- The turn-of-the-century Gorham item pictured below doesn't really belong here since I think it originated as a decorative item for a leather wallet or case. But it was converted into a pin around the 20s or so, judging by the pin findings. It is 3 7/8" long. Elaborately pierced and decorated with turquoise and applied wirework, it has kind of an Austrian Arts & Crafts feel. The CCF mark on it might suggest it was a special order. IP: Logged |
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. Newer stuff (i.e. 1940s or so to the present) is just marked GORHAM STERLING. Going to the jewelry section in eBay and typing in "gorham" to the search bar will show what sorts of things are produced these days, in addition to spoon rings & salt spoon pins.
