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General Silver Forum corrosion spots on silver
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Author | Topic: corrosion spots on silver |
vathek Posts: 966 |
posted 09-05-2003 07:14 AM
Just wonder what methods others of you use to get rid of those small corrosion spots that don't polish out? IP: Logged |
FredZ Posts: 1070 |
posted 09-05-2003 01:06 PM
The method I use to remove corrosion or tenacious blacked spots depends on the quality of the item and where these spots occur. If the blemish is in fact corrosion and the metal has been corroded by a chemical force I may abbrade it to even out the metal or I might be able to planish out the irregularity with a fine polished hammer. The black spots are often removed with a slightly more abrasive compound such as tripoly or FFFF grade pumice and sometimes Semichrome Polish. I then finish off with a regular silver polish. There is always the chance that the use of aggresive compounds will reveal FireScale on the article being restored. I recommend only using hand buffing and polishing. [This message has been edited by FredZ (edited 09-05-2003).] IP: Logged |
Anuh Posts: 190 |
posted 09-05-2003 07:23 PM
I agree with FredZ but want to add some additional comments. First of all, ammonia added to your silver polish will remove some of the spotting far better than just using silver polish. I found this tip in a book of old formulas and it does work! One of these days, I'm going to try just sitting a dish of ammonia in a closed container with a piece of silver in it and see if that will loosen the spots any! When I get around to it (and don't hold your breath), I'll let you know what the results are. Corrosion can also mean that the piece you are having problems with is silverplate. I assume vathek knows silver when he handles it, but just in case he missed on ths one... ------------------ IP: Logged |
Paul Lemieux Posts: 1792 |
posted 09-05-2003 08:56 PM
I have had badly corroded salt cellars and salt spoons before. These I have just put right into a bowl of ammonia (by an open window). Or in the case of the cellars, I filled the interior with ammonia. Then I use a small amount of Simichrome polish where the corrosion used to be to give the silver a nice luster. I have left silver in ammonia for over 24 hours and it has not damaged it. IP: Logged |
Anuh Posts: 190 |
posted 09-06-2003 03:51 PM
Thanks, Paul. I'll try that on some of my small pieces. I had thought to try just enclosing them in a case (old aquarium was what I was planning on using) and see if when shut up with them if the fumes from the ammonia would loosen the bad spots. I will try the soaking on some old plate pieces I have. I often add a lot of ammonia to my polishes on the Victorian silverplated pieces, which turn quite black with age. If the soaking will do it, there are a few I intend to keep because I love them but just won't use them as dark as they are! I'd rather sell them, properly explained to the buyer, than to put more time in cleaning them. Some people actually prefer them black!
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vathek Posts: 966 |
posted 09-07-2003 07:50 AM
Black spots are a frequent problem with old poorly stored silver. This particular item is a large Sciarrotta sterling bowl (and not leaf shaped). The ammonia tip sounds promising and I'll try that. thanks. IP: Logged |
Paul Lemieux Posts: 1792 |
posted 09-07-2003 02:05 PM
When I have used ammonia in the past, it has left the silver dull where it removed the corrosion. So, I just cleaned this area with Simichrome and it worked fine. IP: Logged |
swarter Moderator Posts: 2920 |
posted 09-07-2003 02:15 PM
quote: I think you will be disappointed if you try this. I have used commercial ultrasonic cleaning solutions (which contain ammonia), both with and without the ultrasonic cleaner, to clean brass, and the immersed parts clean nicely, but anything left sticking out and exposed to the fumes alone turned black. I have tried household ammonia diluted in water with the same results. I suspect that the black spots on silver are indicative of pitting, or will become pits if left untreated, so chemical cleaning seems necessary to penetrate deeply enough to remove all the oxidation, but complete immersion is necessary. I have had occasion to (and will not again) use a commercial urea based silver cleaning solution. It turned the black oxidation into a white material that washed off easily. It worked, but it smelled very bad, and may be too harsh to use routinely. The downside to chemical cleaning when not really necessary, is that it works too well for some tastes, removing the dark accents from low places, and requiring application of an oxidizer to replace them (I know dealers who do this). It should be used for only the toughest of cases. IP: Logged |
Anuh Posts: 190 |
posted 09-07-2003 07:13 PM
I shall try anyway. Another thing that DOES work (and was used by Stieff Silver Co. when I worked for them in those same long ago years) was to put all the silver into a solution of STP in hot water in an aluminum pail. It chemically changes the tarnish. This works fine with lightly tarnished pieces, and when you remove them, you rinse them off in clean water and buff them bright. However, it doesn't seem to work well on the Victorian silver, where mixing ammonia in with the polish DOES work far better than the polish alone. That, too, may remove some of the oxidant in the crevices. You need to be clear on which is worse to you. I generally polish with Simichrome and even batches I've done wth the STP treatment, if badly tarnished to start with will require that to brighten them back up. It has something to do, I believe, with the chemical change from tarnish back to a silver deposit. It's like removing rust. It never truly becomes part of the iron object again - the most you can expect is to have it benignly and gently removed! ------------------ IP: Logged |
vathek Posts: 966 |
posted 09-09-2003 07:29 AM
Anuh, when you say "stp" do you mean the oil additive used in cars? IP: Logged |
FredZ Posts: 1070 |
posted 09-09-2003 03:36 PM
I think it might be TSP TriSodium Phosphate.. I would be curious to see if this works. Fred IP: Logged |
FredZ Posts: 1070 |
posted 09-09-2003 03:43 PM
I remember that folks sometime used Bicarbonate of Soda (baking soda) disolved in water in an aluminum pan and that is supposed to cause a chemical reaction that strips the silver. I do not think I would want to use this method. Perhaps the chemists in the group could shed some light on this method. Fred IP: Logged |
Bob and Carol Carnighan Posts: 63 |
posted 09-09-2003 04:20 PM
You must use sodium carbonate (washing soda) not bicarbonate and a sheet of aluminum. We use a sheet of Reynolds Wrap in a sink filled with a sodium carbonate solution for badly tarnished hollowware. Not recommended for anything with a pattern. All tarnish is removed even deep down in the pattern giving the piece a newly made flat look. IP: Logged |
FredZ Posts: 1070 |
posted 09-09-2003 10:46 PM
So pleased we got to hear from the local chemists and that all was clarified as to what is used and how. I have never had the oportunity to use this method and may one day. Fred IP: Logged |
Anuh Posts: 190 |
posted 09-10-2003 07:06 PM
quote:
IP: Logged |
Anuh Posts: 190 |
posted 09-10-2003 07:09 PM
Just as an aside, BAKING soda DOES work! Just not as well. And in an aluminum pan! I've done that when I get too far behind in cleaning the silver. Baking soda is quite helpful in household cleaning, too! Just don't leave it in place too long! IP: Logged |
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