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Author | Topic: cleaning silver problem |
FlaRE Posts: 8 |
posted 10-26-2005 03:06 AM
I have some old sterling silver that hasn't been cleaned in 30 years. I've tried Silvo and Wrights Silver Cream. I have a highly ornate champagne bucket (with a few other pieces like it) that I have been cleaning on for a few weeks and its killing my arm. Its like I have taken only about 30% of the tarnish off. Is there a better brand to use ? Also in the hundred little crevices on this piece I can't get into them, Cue tips don't work. Any suggestions ? IP: Logged |
tnote Posts: 20 |
posted 10-26-2005 05:54 AM
I "googled" cleaning silver and found a method that worked wonderfully, especially in those cracks, crevices and intricate areas: Boil water ( 2 qts?) with a few pieces of aluminum foil added. Add baking powder( 1/4 cup) and then submerge your silver items in the water. Keep the items submerged for a few minutes. You may need to add more baking powder. Experiment with how much baking powder to add. Remove silver and wash with soap and water and dry. Google this method. People have tried variations of this method and it works great for me ! IP: Logged |
FWG Posts: 845 |
posted 10-26-2005 10:21 AM
Quite right, but that should be baking SODA rather than baking POWDER. In solution the soda ionizes and allows an electrolytic reaction between the silver and aluminum that reduces (de-oxidizes) the silver surface. You can do it in an unlined aluminum pan for ease, or add an aluminum plate to the solution in a non-reactive container. It should be most effective, as I understand it, if the aluminum and silver are allowed to make contact. The solution needs to be pretty strong. A CAVEAT, HOWEVER: this process works like those infamous commercial tarnish removers, in the sense that it will strip ALL tarnish, even the desired parts. Most people don't want their antique surface to look new, but to have an appropriate patina -- which means a darkened surface in 'nooks and crannies', and often even a slightly darkened surface overall. THIS PROCESS WILL REMOVE ALL PATINATION. If that's what you're after it's great. Personally I've only ever done it once or twice, on pieces of no value, mostly just to observe the process. ANOTHER CAVEAT: it won't work if there are oils or other coatings on the metal, so the pieces have to be thoroughly cleaned with soap, and sometimes even solvents. IP: Logged |
FWG Posts: 845 |
posted 10-26-2005 10:28 AM
Another caveat and a clarification I found in checking the information above: If you do this it's worth having good ventilation, since sulfurous gases may be released (think rotten egg smell). This is because the tarnish is actually a silver sulfide -- so while it's oxidation in a generic sense, in the most specific sense it's a process of sulfidization! [This message has been edited by FWG (edited 10-26-2005).] IP: Logged |
tnote Posts: 20 |
posted 10-26-2005 10:58 AM
Oops ! FWG is correct. I mixed baking soda with powder. And, good point about the fumes. IP: Logged |
Dale Posts: 2132 |
posted 10-26-2005 12:23 PM
I suspect you are running into the dread lacquer problem. When polishing gets you nowhere, it usually indicates that something is on top of the silver. Try using some nail polish remover on a small spot. See if there is something that will peel off. Then use a lacquer remover to clear the piece of this substance. DO THIS OUTSIDE. Then it should polish up nicely. IP: Logged |
Kimo Posts: 1627 |
posted 10-26-2005 01:33 PM
I agree that it is most likely laquer that needs to be removed first. I would also strongly recommend that you do not use a dip of any kind since it will not only remove the tarnish but also the patina which is a large part of old silver's beauty. You want a little bit of tarnish in the crevices to give it a three dimensional look and make the details pop out. It is kind of like doing a drawing of an apple. You can draw just the outline and it will look plain and lifeless, or you can add some shading in the appropriate places and it comes alive. Honest patina should be preserved as much as possible. IP: Logged |
Raf Steel Posts: 94 |
posted 10-26-2005 01:56 PM
Sometimes dips are usefull, in case of very heavy chasing for instance, or on very thin (and thus fragile substances). I tend to use a silver dip, lengtend with water, to make it less concentrated. I only use it to clean most of the dirt, the rest I do by hand. One advantage of the 'dips': you don't rubb the silver: so no wear! Don't use silverdip on very tarnished silver gilt objects (especially german - Hanau- ones), with the tarnished surface, the gilding disappears. Anyone knows how to clean such objects? IP: Logged |
FWG Posts: 845 |
posted 10-26-2005 04:12 PM
Here's a lacquer solution that's PURELY FOR AMUSEMENT -- DO NOT TRY THIS! I knew someone once who had a lacquered piece, a Maria Theresa as I recall, who put it on a lit gas stove burner to burn off the lacquer. It worked, of course -- lacquer is rather flammable -- but also would produce nasty fumes and run serious risk of damaging the piece. Noxious as they can be, solvents are really a better solution! IP: Logged |
Bob and Carol Carnighan Posts: 63 |
posted 10-26-2005 04:20 PM
Washing soda (sodium carbonate) works better than baking soda (sodium bicarbonate). IP: Logged |
FlaRE Posts: 8 |
posted 10-26-2005 11:45 PM
Thanks a lot to a swell bunch. IP: Logged |
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