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General Silver Forum rusting tools
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Author | Topic: rusting tools |
middletom Posts: 467 |
posted 02-17-2007 06:10 PM
I don't know if this is the proper forum in which to tell this story, but all the others are very specific as to subject matter covered, so I'll go ahead. A recent news story said that a climate change, which had started about six years ago, was causing the climate here in the northeast to be more humid than in most of the recorded past. Here at ONC, we noticed this change without being told about it, because our iron and steel tools started to rust as they have never done before and the beginning of this was about six years ago. Spoon bowl punches that are not used frequently now quickly develop a coating of surface rust, whereas in the past they mostly collected dust. Previously a tool had to sit unused for a few years before any rust developed, but now only a month or a few weeks will be enough time. We find that any infrequently used tool, be it a punch or hammer, has to be wire brushed and steel wooled, then given a spray of WD-40 to protect it. Has any other silversmith noted this change in the effects of the climate on tools? IP: Logged |
agleopar Posts: 850 |
posted 02-21-2007 10:45 AM
Tom, since I live in the Hudson Valley it can be very humid here on any given summer so this has been an issue for my stakes for a long time. When I was in boston it never seemed to be a problem. IP: Logged |
FredZ Posts: 1070 |
posted 02-21-2007 05:55 PM
In the dry Arizona climate I have very little problem with rust on stakes or hammer heads. Fred IP: Logged |
middletom Posts: 467 |
posted 02-24-2007 06:55 PM
Agleopar, When were you in Boston? And was the building you were in closed tight or did the windows open? The tools on display in our showroom don't seem to have the rust problem and that may be due to it being closed up and air conditioned in the summer and of smaller size than the workshop and probably better heated in the winter. As to Fred. You know, it's not nice to rub our noses in your dry climate. Seriously, I do envy you not having to stay on top of that problem. I inquired of a tool supply company whether they had a tool protectant spray that did not dry out as WD-40 does, but they said that all such things dry out in time, so WD-40 is as good as anything. IP: Logged |
feniangirl Posts: 36 |
posted 02-28-2007 12:52 PM
This won't prevent the problem 100%, but it may help a bit and eliminate the need to wire brush and steel wool your tools. I discovered a product while restoring antique ceiling lights which had survived a fire, but become heavily rusted due to the water from the fire hoses and sitting around for years. The product is called Evapo-Rust. It is non-toxic, has no fumes, is biodegradable and depending on the thickness of the rust, it works in minutes. No need to even wear gloves. Plus it is re-useable many times. I have since used it on tools, antique wrought iron and a few other things. It is one of the very few "miracle" products I have ever found and I would never be without it. (Don't mean to sound like a commercial, but this is the best stuff I have ever for removing rust and I tried many.) The directions say once the rust is removed, dip the item in the Evapo-Rust and let it dry to prevent future rusting for at least two weeks. The humidity here is horrible and my lights still have no rust after three years! You should be able to find it online easily. IP: Logged |
FWG Posts: 845 |
posted 02-28-2007 01:32 PM
I haven't used that specific product, but others of its sort I have used have a quality that renders them inappropriate for this use, and I assume this would be the same. While they do remove rust beautifully, they don't necessarily leave behind a perfect surface. The tools in consideration here depend on a mirror finish; the slightest defect would be reproduced into the surface of the silver being worked. So even after using the rust remover you'd still have to polish the surface -- which would remove whatever protective coating is left behind, and still require oiling. The old-fashioned approach was to use a heavy grease coating, which doesn't dry out like WD-40 but does have to be removed before use. I've wondered if storing them in a cabinet with a desiccant might be sufficient, but can't speak to any experience there. I haven't had any trouble with my spoon stakes (the only ones I keep) here in central NY, but they're kept in a space that is always either heated or air-conditioned, and thus stays at a fairly low humidity. IP: Logged |
agleopar Posts: 850 |
posted 03-03-2007 11:27 AM
Middletom, I was in 2 workshops, Allston from 1977 and then Waltham for six years until 1989 when I moved to the Hudson Valley. No nothing was closed up and humitity was only occasionlly an issue, so perhaps the weather has changed. Maybe rust on your stakes wiil be the least of your problems and building a dock for your row boat to tie up to at the workshop will be more important...? Has anyone tried Vasoline? [This message has been edited by agleopar (edited 03-03-2007).] IP: Logged |
Scott Martin Forum Master Posts: 11520 |
posted 03-03-2007 12:14 PM
I have never tried this.... You might try using Renaissance Wax. Also see prior post: Displaying SS Christmas Ornaments IP: Logged |
middletom Posts: 467 |
posted 03-04-2007 12:41 PM
feniangirl and Scott, thank you for your suggestions. I will give those a try. Anything that will protect those precious tools is worth checking into. IP: Logged |
FredZ Posts: 1070 |
posted 03-04-2007 07:43 PM
Vaseline does work. It is a bit messy and it works well for long periods of time. Fred IP: Logged |
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