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tline3open  Betty Cooke Cuff?

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Author Topic:   Betty Cooke Cuff?
vathek

Posts: 966
Registered: Jun 99

iconnumber posted 05-01-2008 03:24 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for vathek     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I picked this up recently rather cheaply as sadly there is only one. Marked only 'sterling' but not signed but it sure looks like her work.

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FredZ

Posts: 1070
Registered: Jun 99

iconnumber posted 05-01-2008 04:01 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for FredZ     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I suspect it might be Mexican. I have seen several pieces with black plastic used as backing for pierced designs of animals. I have always thought the black may have been a piece of a vinyl record.

I own several single cufflinks as well. The first Spratling piece I ever found was a single earring.

Fred

[This message has been edited by FredZ (edited 05-01-2008).]

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jersey

Posts: 1203
Registered: Feb 2005

iconnumber posted 05-01-2008 05:50 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for jersey     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hello vathek!
Looks like Native American Indian work as well. It's what they call silver overlay. They describe the process as being constructed from two layers of sterling silver. The design is traced on a sheet of silver and then cut out with a jeweler's saw by hand. This top design layer is then silver soldered to another sheet, the bottom layer, of silver. Texturing is added to the bottom layer in all the open areas of the design using a hammer and a small punch. The piece is then trimmed to it's final shape and size. Next the assembled item gets hammered into its final form, contoured, and blackened to enhance the negative areas of the design. The top surface is then buffed to either a matte-like satin finish or to a mirror-like high polish.
Hope this helps.
Are there no marks at all on it?

Jersey

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vathek

Posts: 966
Registered: Jun 99

iconnumber posted 05-01-2008 05:56 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for vathek     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
No mark at all other than sterling, but according to Paul's post below most of her stuff isn't marked. Also if there is a black backing one can usually see the layers from the side. Due to not good photography the incised areas may look black but they're not, it's just more tarnished. Also, Cooke used the same shape for her work.

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Paul Lemieux

Posts: 1792
Registered: Apr 2000

iconnumber posted 05-02-2008 11:53 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Paul Lemieux     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I do not think it is Betty Cooke. Her animals are stylized in a different and idiosyncratic way. They are more geometric, seemingly very simplified, but also manage to be amusing and have a lot of personality. This bull seems unnecessarily ornate; for example, I would not expect that ess-curve tail on a Betty Cooke piece.

Signed Cooke pin:

I have not seen many Cooke cufflinks, but the pair in my collection has handmade findings. The finding on this cufflink was commercially available to studio jewelers, and I have seen it on a variety of signed and unsigned examples.

In my other Betty Cooke post, I didn't mean to imply that most of her work is unsigned, just that most of the pieces in the group I showed were unsigned.

I think the style, "STERLING" mark, and finding on this cufflink suggest it is a mid-century studio piece in the Modernist style, probably by an unknown American jeweler.

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