posted 07-16-2011 12:28 AM            

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A Bit of Clay on the Skin: New Ceramic Jewelry
Museum of Arts and Design
March 15 - September 4, 2011

selected objects from the exhibition

A Bit of Clay on the Skin: New Ceramic Jewelry explores the manifold appeal of ceramics, especially porcelain, in jewelry. Organized by the Fondation d'Entreprise Bernardaud and curated by the renowned German-born goldsmith and jewelry artist Monika Brugger, the exhibition showcases the versatility and allure of the medium, which can be modeled or cast, used alone or with metal, wood, and stone, and vary in color and texture. Best known as the stuff of the luxurious and the mundane, of fine tableware and technical equipment, when used in jewelry, porcelain sparks the visual and physical sensations to become an object of desire.

The exhibition showcases the scope and ingenuity of the more than one hundred works on view and features the work of 18 cutting-edge jewelry artists, including creations by such notables as Peter Hoogeboom, Evert Nijland, Ted Noten (The Netherlands), Gésine Hackenberg (Germany), Marie Pendariès (Spain), and Shu-Lin Wu (Taiwan). While some make reference to traditional jewelry in materials and symbolism, others altogether redefine it in substance, form, and matter.

"Even though the Egyptians produced seal rings in faience, and the Greeks and Romans gilded terracotta to imitate gold, the use of ceramics in the fabrication of jewelry was abandoned centuries ago," says curator Monika Brugger. "Today many artists, like those assembled in this show, are popularizing porcelain as a compelling material for jewelry."

"Ceramic jewelry embodies the creative transformation of a humble Earth material by art and industry into a wearable object of great refinement and sensuality," notes MAD's Jewelry Curator Ursula Ilse-Neuman. "Exploring new currents in art jewelry is a vital part of the Museum's mission," she continues. "We are delighted to present these visually and intellectually engaging works to a New York audience."

THE FONDATION D'ENTREPRISE BERNARDAUD
Established in 2003 by Michel Bernardaud, the family-run company's Chairman and CEO, the mission of the Fondation d'Entreprise Bernardaud is to promote a deeper public awareness of porcelain's fascinating history and extraordinary qualities. The Fondation, located in Limoges, France, welcomes an international array of artists and designers who are invited to invent unexpected usages for porcelain. Through these innovative and technically challenging projects, the Fondation aims to give new value to a craft that favors the "wisdom of the hand."

BERNARDAUD
A family owned-and-operated company founded in 1863, Bernardaud is the premier manufacturer of Limoges porcelain. Deeply rooted in the history and activity of that region, the company is highly regarded for its artistic, technical and innovative prowess. Among French luxury brands it is a considered a trendsetter for objects that are characterized by original forms and stunning decorative embellishments, while globally the company is renowned for its commitment to the French traditions of impeccable craftsmanship, refinement, and creativity in the fabrication of porcelain objects. The vast range of its collections--tableware, jewelry and decorative interior objects---elegantly fuses design, art, and lifestyle.

A Bit of Clay on the Skin: New Ceramic Jewelry is made possible in part by the Mondriaan Foundation, Amsterdam, and the Curators Circle, a leadership Museum support group.Champagne for the opening reception graciously donated by La Caravelle.

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To add my example to the fray, here is a circa 1993-97 ceramic brooch made in Czechoslovakia and designed by NJ artist Marion Munk.

Seeing MAD's exhibit and finding this brooch have made me realize what great possibilities ceramics have for jewelry. Does anybody else have pieces to share? The pin shown above is one of my favorites likely to be in my collection for a long time; however, have also owned (but sold) some Ruskin Arts & Crafts pottery pieces. I hope some of our other members can share jewelry featuring porcelain, plaster, clay, etc... The Japanese company Toshikane also produced wonderful porcelain pieces of jewelry, but I don't have any pix or examples.