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posted 01-25-2005 06:47 AM            

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Know it's not silver, but a gold question can fit in every once in a while, right? Posting pictures of a 14k and enamel dragonfly watch pin that I bought over twenty years ago made by Riker Bros. of Newark, NJ. Have been unable to find much information about the company and what little I've found over the years seems to be conflicting. Some sources say that they made standard commercial pieces and others say that their works are highly desirable collector pieces. Guessing that they made a wide range? One bit that I did run across was that the moderator's museum had a 1997 exhibit including Riker Bros. and he edited the catalog. Have always assumed the dating on this piece to be around 1910 and find it to be beautifully made, jeweler IDed the small stones as demantoid garnets, diamond and ruby. Would be pleased to have any information about the maker and opinions on the piece.

Thanks so much!

Cheryl ;o)

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posted 01-25-2005 02:50 PM            

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Attached below is the write-up on the Riker firm from The Newark Museum's book "The Glitter & The Gold: Fashioning America's Jewelry," from 1997. The answer to your puzzlement is that this dragonfly pin you have is in fact "standard commercial jewelry." It is also a desirable collector's piece, as the best Newark jewelry was. Standards among Newark producers were very high, and were celebrated throughout the national jewelry trade at the turn of the 20th century. Newark jewelers, including Riker Brothers, produced a huge range of gold, platinum and (wait for it) SILVER jewelry between the 1850s and the 1950s. A version of your dragonfly pin was included in the 1997 book, with different enamel and diamonds instead of colored stones.

RIKER BROTHERS:
William Riker was an heir to an old New Jersey family, founded by Abraham Ryker, who came from Holland in 1636 and settled at Newtown, Long Island. His father moved to Montclair, New Jersey where, in 1822, William was born. At the age of 15, Riker began an apprenticeship with Taylor & Baldwin, continuing there until he left to work with Downing & Hoyt in New York. In 1846, he entered into partnership with George H. Tay, opening a shop on Quarry Street in Newark, the firm known as Riker & Tay. The firm grew to such a degree that, within a year, they bought the tools and fixtures of Bliss & Dwight at 379 Broad Street, where they relocated the company.
In 1849, Tay left the company to pursue gold prospecting in California, eventually opening a stove manufacturing business in San Francisco. Shortly after his departure, Horace Goble became a partner and the name was changed to Riker & Goble. In 1859, they moved their factory to Green Street, where they worked together until Goble retired in 1864. William Riker continued the business under his own name until the 1870s, when his sons, William Jr., Joseph M. and Cortlandt, joined the firm in 1871, 1873 and 1875, respectively, and the name became Riker & Sons. In 1870, Riker purchased a schoolhouse at 42 Court Street which he enlarged to accommodate his business.
During the 1870s, William Riker patented a number of successful mechanical processes for the manufacture of jewelry, including two for ornamenting the surface of jewelry and finger rings, and another for an improved sash fastener. In 1892, William Riker and his son, Cortlandt, withdrew from the company; Cortlandt becoming secretary of the Newark Rapid Transit Co. On May 1 of that year, the house became known as Riker Bros. and, on that same day, they closed their selling office at 860 Broadway in New York City, moving that division to their factory building, which had relocated to 42-46 Hill Street. On December 29, 1898, William Riker died. William Jr. continued as supervisor of the office and factory while his brother became president of the Newark Manufacturing Jewelers' Association and assumed the duties of president of the Merchants National Bank.
William Riker originally offered gold fob chains and charms, and was one of the earliest manufacturers to offer Masonic goods of all kinds. In the 1870s, the company also sold onyx and cameo lockets and cameo rings. Their stock eventually included a full line of high-quality jewelry in gold and platinum. They were one of only a few firms working in plique-à-jour enameling. At the 1916 Newark Industrial Exposition, Riker Brothers exhibited 18 pieces of platinum jewelry, set with diamonds, pearls, sapphires and other precious gemstones.
Riker Bros maintained a factory at 42-46 Court Street and was listed in the city directories there until 1926. It is believed that at this time the firm moved to Indianapolis, remaining there until the mid-1940s.

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posted 01-25-2005 03:38 PM            

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Thank you so much! This was the piece that started my dragonfly collection and is still my favorite.

Cheryl ;o)

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posted 02-09-2005 10:22 PM            

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Lovely dragonfly, Cheryl!

All of the Riker jewelry I've seen has been top quality, with small, but exquisite details. What I found interesting is that most pieces were 14K, but had coloring or wash that appeared like higher karat gold with a matte finish. I saw it on nouveau jewelry, (some) deco jewelry, and a brooch for a religious order. I wonder if this type of finish is what is referred to in Ulysses post:

" During the 1870s, William Riker patented a number of successful mechanical processes for the manufacture of jewelry, including two for ornamenting the surface of jewelry and finger rings..."

If I remember correctly, there were some variations in the Riker mark. The scimitar under the R could be pointed to the left or the right. In one case, I had a piece with only the scimitar with no R above it, but it had the same detailing and matte finish as other Riker pieces I've owned.

- rat

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posted 02-10-2005 12:04 AM            

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Thanks rat, glad you like it! Consider that a true compliment from a collector of your calibre. Love jewelry, and have had some nice pieces over the years, but aside from dragonflies, not really a collector. Paid quite a bit for this one many years ago, but felt better about it when (few months later) a New York dealer offered me four times my investment. Can't picture ever selling it, would have to be in truly dire straits.

Cheryl ;o)

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posted 02-10-2005 10:29 AM            

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That magic finish on middle-class jewelry was known various as "coloring" or "Roman Gold." It was simply this: The finished 14k piece (pre-enameling and gems, obviously) was boiled in acid, which removed all of the alloy materials from the gold on the surface, leaving a matte 24karat surface, with an incredibly rich color. I'm not sure what Riker himself invented, but it may in fact have been more aligned with surface textures, and ways to produce plique a jour enamel (backless enamel) on an affordable piece.

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posted 03-16-2005 01:41 AM            

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Cheryl,

I couldn't believe it, but the Skinner auction house just sold a Riker butterfly bracelet with opals today for $7000.

Description:
"Art Nouveau Opal and Gem-set Bracelet, Riker Bros., centering an opal butterfly with bezel-set demantoid garnet, diamond, amethyst, and yellow-green zircon highlights, flanked by hinged foliate plaques bezel-set with opals, lg. 7 1/2 in., hallmark."

I personally think your dragonfly is more attractive...

- rat

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posted 03-16-2005 10:42 AM            

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Hi rat,

Thanks for letting me know about the bracelet and yet another compliment on my dragonfly! Wonderful additions to your post on the jewelry forum.

Cheryl ;o)

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