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tline3open  Modernist jeweler HLW

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Author Topic:   Modernist jeweler HLW
vathek

Posts: 966
Registered: Jun 99

iconnumber posted 12-05-2006 02:59 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for vathek     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Have a teardrop silver (unmarked) and red enamel pin signed with these initials and have had no luck on the internet tracking them down.Would appreciate it if anyone has info they can share. thanks.

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FredZ

Posts: 1070
Registered: Jun 99

iconnumber posted 12-05-2006 06:14 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for FredZ     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
An Image of the pin might give us a clue. Is it marked STERLING?

Fred

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vathek

Posts: 966
Registered: Jun 99

iconnumber posted 12-06-2006 02:17 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for vathek     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
here's a pic of the front. while not marked sterling I believe it is.

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FredZ

Posts: 1070
Registered: Jun 99

iconnumber posted 12-06-2006 02:52 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for FredZ     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Neat pin! I do not recognize the work as that by anyone I know or am familiar with.

Fred

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FWG

Posts: 845
Registered: Aug 2005

iconnumber posted 12-07-2006 11:29 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for FWG     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
FWIW, I see the mark as photographed more as KIW or RIW than HLW....

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FredZ

Posts: 1070
Registered: Jun 99

iconnumber posted 12-07-2006 02:18 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for FredZ     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I think Vathek is correctly reading that the letters are all lower case.

Fred

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FWG

Posts: 845
Registered: Aug 2005

iconnumber posted 12-07-2006 05:28 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for FWG     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Aah -- I see it now. Possibly hiw, although I doubt it, but either way I suspect it's going to be hard to identify....

[This message has been edited by FWG (edited 12-08-2006).]

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vathek

Posts: 966
Registered: Jun 99

iconnumber posted 12-08-2006 07:55 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for vathek     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Seems like another artisan that will be lost to history. I'm still wondering if it's not stamped sterling because the maker wasn't able to afford the punch for that when the pin was made and opted for the i.d. punch instead.

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FredZ

Posts: 1070
Registered: Jun 99

iconnumber posted 12-08-2006 12:56 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for FredZ     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I suspect there are hundreds of unidentified maker's marks and quality stamping by studio makers is sometimes omitted. It is possible that the maker could not find the sterling stamp at the time he was ready to stamp the items he was making that day.

It would be helpful if the craft organizations and local guilds would make an effort to request and record makers marks and signatures.

Fred

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Dale

Posts: 2132
Registered: Nov 2002

iconnumber posted 12-08-2006 11:35 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dale     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Sometimes things are not marked sterling because the maker worked primarily in another metal. With only occasional silver pieces. Particularly where enameling is involved, my inclination is to suspect that this was made by a coppersmith. And since coppersmiths rarely mark their production 'copper', there is no compeling reason to expect them to mark anything 'silver'.

Looking at the piece, I would imagine that it came with matching earrings (post, pierced, clip on), and that there probably were cuff links and maybe a tie bar also offered. The red would be a perfect setting for a pearl. Neat piece.

Jewelry is something that does not lend itself to mass production. The reason we know so much about silverware is that there are economies of scale in producing it. With a correspondingly reasonably unified market interested in buying from a fairly narrow range of offerings. It is possible to learn a great deal about the few silver makers.

But the demand for jewelry is so fragmented that no large scale makers ever emerged. AFAIK there is no jewelry firm of the size and scope of IS or Gorham. Nor are there small scale flatware makers who produce in their spare time and sell at flea markets. Lots of very skilled and creative jewelry makers do so.

The world of jewelry is filled with loads of small firms that produce to order and to taste. Add in all the amateurs and part time makers and there is a universe much larger than all the US flatware makers combined. Which is why it is so difficult to track down these marks.

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Ulysses Dietz
Moderator

Posts: 1265
Registered: May 99

iconnumber posted 12-10-2006 10:43 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ulysses Dietz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Just as an alarming fact: our adult Arts Workshop regularly teaches grown-up hobbyists to make rather fine quality silver jewelry with enameling. As these pieces work their way into the market in future years, they will create many puzzles that are essentially unsolvable for future collectors and curators. This was true in the 1900s, the 1920s, the 1940s, etc. Student hobby jewelers of good skill produced many things that are out there now confusing everybody. That's why it was called the craft MOVEMENT. Was this true, I wonder, in England as well, where small bits of jewelry didn't necessarily need to be marked by the guild halls--or did they?

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