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Silverplate Forum Coin Silver or Not?
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Author | Topic: Coin Silver or Not? |
venus Posts: 282 |
posted 03-01-2006 06:13 PM
[26-0932] Are there guidelines to go by regarding silver with no marks? Have 3 things that are some type of silver, either silver plate, sterling or coin. One I really, really would be surprised if it was not coin, the other 2 are iffy. Don't think any of them were made in China or India. Maybe Godinger or some other maker who uses labels, but kinda don't think so either. I will post the pictures if any one thinks that may help. Any reason that a maker would not mark them? IP: Logged |
IJP Posts: 326 |
posted 03-01-2006 09:33 PM
quote: Venus: Pictures always help!!! [This message has been edited by IJP (edited 03-01-2006).] IP: Logged |
carlaz Posts: 239 |
posted 03-02-2006 10:33 AM
I believe what you a basically asking is how you would tell the base metal without any type of marks or maker information. The best way is to have each piece tested by a silversmith. They apply an acid mixture to the piece (in a small area, usually on the bottom or hard to find location). The chemical reaction of the metal will show you the make up of metals. I even have a customer who has her own little acid test kit at home and swears by it. She has found many wonderful little bargins on unidentifiable items without maker marks, etc. Of course, I am concerned that one day she make ruin a piece by testing it as the acid does sometime leave a mark that cannot be removed, especially on silverplate. And heavily applied silverplate can give you a false reading unless they polish down to the base metal, removing a surface of the plate. Other than that, one could perhaps try and establish a time period that is was made throught the particular style of the piece. For coin, Fiddle with fins, Fiddle without fins, Coffin, Flat Stem, etc. IP: Logged |
Scott Martin Forum Master Posts: 11520 |
posted 03-02-2006 11:33 AM
Carla, People tend to gravitate to the "acid tests" because it seems quick and easy. They ignore the dangers of using a very caustic and dangerous acid. They ignore the fact that any time you apply acid to something you are destroying some of the item and lessening its appeal. All of the acid tests take some skill to do properly and to interpret the seemingly easy results. I realize this is what the majority do but it is not the best. Experience, research, and several other non-destructive tests are so much better. IP: Logged |
carlaz Posts: 239 |
posted 03-02-2006 11:53 AM
I am glad you pointed out the dangers of the acid tests as I am wondering when my customer will one day come in with a horror story of how she put a hole in her dining room table or God forbid, hurts herself with the caustic material. Yes, I should have pointed out the dangers of the acid test not only to the product but to the person using it. Unfortunately, acid testing is a quick answer to this type of dilema, hence my support of researching styles and possible design of pieces. But if an acid test was to be used as an last option, I do emphasize that it only be done in the hands of an experienced silversmith. IP: Logged |
salmoned Posts: 336 |
posted 03-02-2006 01:35 PM
I feel one of the best tests is a specific gravity test. You can do it yourself, it's easy (weigh the item, then weigh the item suspended in water), and accurate (with a good scale/technique). This won't work for pieces with filler or voids that can't be filled with water. IP: Logged |
swarter Moderator Posts: 2920 |
posted 03-02-2006 05:29 PM
Soap box time: I am afraid that there is no way that acid testing can prove reliable without being destructive, as the acid must be left on long enough to dissolve a hole in the surface (since one of the last steps in the finishing process of "solid silver" - the "pickling" - removes some of the inpurities in the alloy and leaves a more nearly pure layer of silver on the surface). I have seen many experienced dealers, and even jewellers, pronounce coin pieces as sterling in this way, and worn (or buffed) coin pieces (with the surface layer gone) as plate ("if it isn't sterling, it must be plate, right?"). Smelters who care nothing beyond the melt value often file gouges in the surface to expose the deeper layers for testing; many scarred pieces, rescued from these smelters with acid burns around the gauges, appeared on the market during and shortly after the "Great Meltdown" precipitated by the Hunt brothers. Acid testing is a sign that the person doing the testing either doesn't know their silver, or at least lacks the confidence in their own ability to judge without testing (which is really saying the same thing). IP: Logged |
Dale Posts: 2132 |
posted 03-02-2006 06:45 PM
The acid tests also require perfect color vision. Which many of us do not have. Anyone with red green color blindness, the most usual type, will not be able to interperate the tests. There are better and more reliable ways of determining. Like read the mark! I once had a very nice medallion cup holder that someone had sawed a big chunk out of. To see if was a solid metal. The piece was marked: Made and Plated by Reed and Barton. I find the markings the most reliable way of learning about a piece. And the acid test as misleading. IP: Logged |
venus Posts: 282 |
posted 03-03-2006 12:53 PM
Here are the three items .... First the gravy boat
tea kettle (has 2 "bands" on each side of handle) dish? If you need dimensions or close ups let me know. IP: Logged |
Dale Posts: 2132 |
posted 03-03-2006 01:44 PM
The covered vegetable dish is by Oneida in their Grosvenor pattern which came out in 1921 and was available into the early 1950's. Grosvenor flatware is one of Oneida's long time popular patterns. IMHE, it is always marked, usually with Community. The other two are department store better holloware. Sometimes these are not marked, for no clear reason. Or they appear with a bewildering array of marks. I have seen matched sets where pieces had different marks. The reason for this seems to be that department stores frequently had their own label for their silverplate holloware. One store would call it something like 'Old Englishy' another would use 'Finer Traditions'. The makers were happy to produce for this market. And sometimes let the store do the marking. The practice of private, one store only brand names seems to have begun in the early 1910's . It was very prevelent during the 1920's and 30's. Stores would frequently offer a coordinated table top ensamble: silver, china and crystal all in one style. The unmarked silver would have a paper label put on at the store. Which would coordinate with the name the store was using at the time. Oneida was the one silverplate maker that offered this service. IS tried but seems never to have gotten it together. The Oneida china I have seen is usually German which suggests that it was made to order for Oneida. There is not a lot of this around, but china breaks while silver ware doesn't. Plus the war put an end to the china supply. Most silverplate made after 1900 can be understood as a 'brand name' not as part of traditional silver artistry. Sears through their Harmony House brand offered this sort of deal well into the 1960's. Their plate was made by Wallace and used the Harmony House mark. IP: Logged |
venus Posts: 282 |
posted 03-03-2006 02:16 PM
The amount of knowledge from the posters on this site is impresive. Thanks to all who answered my questions so graciously. Feel pretty silly though. *smile* [This message has been edited by venus (edited 03-03-2006).] IP: Logged |
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