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tline3open  c 1730 buckle - Newcastle ? Makepeace ?

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Author Topic:   c 1730 buckle - Newcastle ? Makepeace ?
Clive E Taylor

Posts: 450
Registered: Jul 2000

iconnumber posted 05-20-2008 12:55 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Clive E Taylor     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I recently acquired a small (38mm by 37 mm) buckle which could be either a shoe or knee buckle. The Lion Passant Guardant does not appear to be London as the London Lion normally looks emaciated and this one seems well fed ! Also no registered marks in Grimwade appear to match

A possible suspect is Robert Makepeace I of Newcastle but none of his marks given in Gill match. However none of these earlier than one sourced from the copper plate for 1728-30 although he was certainly active before that date .

Is this an unrecorded mark of his or can any one make any suggestions ?

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agphile

Posts: 798
Registered: Apr 2008

iconnumber posted 05-20-2008 01:49 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for agphile     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Sorry -this is not about to offer you any constructive help. Richard Morrow of Liverpool would seem to be too late judging by the style of the scratched initials. But this leads me to ask whether there are obvious pointers to date of manufacture in the style of the buckle itself. I'd be interested to know how they changed over the decades.

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Clive E Taylor

Posts: 450
Registered: Jul 2000

iconnumber posted 05-20-2008 03:38 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Clive E Taylor     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks agphile. The style of the buckle is, by London style around 1730, although the "bobbled" edge is more characteristic of 1760. But like most fashion items motifs get repeated and the whole thing is very 1730 by London examples of "D" shaped buckles. Your comment on the owners initials - which I think are EA ? - very interesting. What period would you put them ?

Styles in buckles are very hard to pin down as they frequently went "retro" and there are a lot of out of period buckles to confuse.
Total absence of date letters before 1790 in London, although Birmingham provided them dutifully from 1773 on what comparatively few examples we have. Very few examples of any shoe buckles prior to 1756 - they were nearly all melted down, although many stock (neck) buckles survive from the 1740 -1756 period. Not being seen, except by one's valet, they escaped the normal scrap and replace for fashion syndrone.

Also provincial areas were often behind London, and older people tended to use old styles long after the young had moved on .

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agphile

Posts: 798
Registered: Apr 2008

iconnumber posted 05-20-2008 06:10 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for agphile     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks for the quick Cook's tour of buckle styles. I agree the initials must be EA though I haven't as far as I recall seen the same decoration to the left of the E on otherwise similarly scratched initials. On my spoons this style of initialing turns up on late 17th and early 18th century specimens and I would be surprised to find it on a spoon much later than 1740.

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Clive E Taylor

Posts: 450
Registered: Jul 2000

iconnumber posted 05-21-2008 04:25 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Clive E Taylor     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Interesting the concept of being able to confirm dating by styles of owners initials.

It would certainly work with tongs and nips where, like buckles, you do not get a date letter until the late eighteenth century.

But spoons, nips and tongs all were items shared with your peers - and presumably you took care over the style and elegance of your proof and pride of ownership. With buckles only yourself and your servants saw the initials (unless you were going to bed with someone) so virtually all initials were in block form on buckles. These do seem early though!

A very common misconception on shoe buckle dating by size exists. The fallacy is "the smaller the buckle, the older it is".

It is true to say that really big shoe buckles are unlikely to be earlier than 1770 ( and very, very , few survive of the real Artois buckles pre 1786 as they were predominately for the upper classes and would normally be quickly scrapped as fashion changed).

But the reverse , that small shoe buckles are early is totally incorrect. Ladies, children, and old-fashioned men all wore small buckles well into the 1780's.Also the 1770's styles made a comeback in the 1790's (and even later in Scotland)with what can only be described as gross versions of the styles popular in small sizes twenty years earlier.

Also in the very late 18th century, when the use of shoe buckles for normal wear had almost vanished, there remained their compulsory use for court, and by extension , formal occasions. This produced a small shoe buckle, normally with an Eley chape usually supplied by James Atkins or his successor, Charkles Rawlins (later Rawlins and Summer).

Many of these survive, indeed many steel versions were being produced well into the twentieth century. The current Queen only abolished the requirement in the 1950's !

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agleopar

Posts: 850
Registered: Jun 2004

iconnumber posted 05-21-2008 09:15 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for agleopar     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Could I chip in on a very small detail of this interesting discussion, the initials are engraved, not scratched in. I think of it as the simplest form of engraving and in the colonies it seems to be what the smith could manage by himself without an engraver.

All this gives no help in dating but does mean that it was done early or provincially?

The E mirror E seems to me to be a cipher i.e. double E?

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swarter
Moderator

Posts: 2920
Registered: May 2003

iconnumber posted 05-21-2008 12:12 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for swarter     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Sorry to be contradictory, but the first initial is a form of the letter "I" ("I" was also used for "J"), commonly known as a "barred I," which was a frequently used early form of the letter in engraving, used at least up to the mid 18th Century.

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Clive E Taylor

Posts: 450
Registered: Jul 2000

iconnumber posted 05-21-2008 01:01 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Clive E Taylor     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I was unsure what the first letter was, but swarter's comment that this "barred I " was used up to at least the mid 18th century is a valuable piece of dating evidence - I have several post 1756 buckles which use an "I" of the more modern form and it seems to me that, in England at least this usage probably disappeared by 1750 .

Having established a date, we now need a Newcastle or English provincial expert to tell us the assay office !!!!

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agleopar

Posts: 850
Registered: Jun 2004

iconnumber posted 05-21-2008 04:18 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for agleopar     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Swarter your not contradictory just correctional, I was only guessing and appreciate the knowledge you share. The small size (and enlarged image) was what threw me and now I see why it has to be a barred I, which I did not know of but will be on the look out for as another sign post to that elusive 17th c. spoon I have been trying to find!

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agphile

Posts: 798
Registered: Apr 2008

iconnumber posted 05-21-2008 06:57 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for agphile     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I have to apologize for my careless use of the term "scratched". I guess I tend to use it as an abbreviation for scratch engraved to distinguish from pricked initials, but perhaps even that longer phrase does an injustice to the silversmith or engraver.

When I said I would not expect to see this style of initialing much beyond the 1740s I did not mean this to apply to block initials in general (they can be found up to the 1760s if not beyond) but to the details of the style such as the exaggerated cross strokes to the top and bottom of the letters. However, that could in this case simply be because the engraving is so small that what was meant as tiny detail seems proportionately larger. The scale of the crossbar for the same reason is probably what threw us over the barred I before Swarter pointed it out.

I have had a quick look through some of my collection and the barred I seems to occur less frequently than a straightforward one, but I found examples of the barred form from 1694 and 1737. Of course, this is just the accident of what I happen to have, not evidence of the earliest and latest date. However at the very least it does not contradict conclusions about the date of the buckle.

I just wish I could offer something useful on the maker or assay office!

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Clive E Taylor

Posts: 450
Registered: Jul 2000

iconnumber posted 05-22-2008 03:40 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Clive E Taylor     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
What is so good about this forum is that although I am no further with the question, I have gained one more piece of information of silver relevence - the barred "I". And chatted to on silver without people actually falling asleep!
Thanks to all

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agleopar

Posts: 850
Registered: Jun 2004

iconnumber posted 05-22-2008 09:55 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for agleopar     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Wide awake when you "chat" Clive!

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